Gastautor
A different kind of hut tour: 3 courses in 3 huts
Culinary
Winter
20.02.2018
My friend Cecilé and I are sitting on the terrace of the “Cantina” in Riezlern, enjoying fresh peppermint tea. Our heads are turned towards the sun, our legs stretched out long. One of the green and blue ski buses whizzes past us. “Hm, we'll take the next bus to Hirschegg then, won't we?” asks Cecilé. I check my watch: 10.15 am. Yes, the next one is ours, I think to myself, then we'll have enough time for our tour to enjoy culinary delights, sunbathe and in any case catch the last descent.
Two weeks later, we were in the car heading towards Riezlern, with a long weekend ahead of us that we wanted to spend hiking on easy paths and enjoying nature. Delicious food is known to keep body and soul together, and a visit to the casino was planned for the thrills. During the 3-hour journey, there was of course plenty of time to discuss the status of our damaged knees, and we unanimously agreed that Kleinwalsertal would be our hiking comeback. But just in case, we had our “Alpenstrapse” in our luggage: my orthopaedic surgeon affectionately referred to the orthopaedic knee support as “Alpenstrapse” - nice, don't you think? So, all's well that ends well - Kleinwalsertal, here we come!
And now we are sitting on the terrace with tea and discussing our hike once again. We had already organized maps, as well as tips for the tour and the promise that no one had got lost yet. “Girls, if you get lost, call us and we'll come and get you...”, said the very nice lady from the tourist office in the Walserhaus. After she explained to us that the three huts were a comfortable 1.5-hour walk from the Heuberglift mountain station, our ambition was awakened - it's easy up, it's only the way down that pinches your knees. So up “by fair means” with access from the valley to the starting point on the Heuberg and down “by fair technique” with the Zaferna 2-seater chairlift. In between, three huts for three courses: Sonna Alp (starter), Maxhütte (main course) and Bühlalpe (dessert). We were hungry - for exercise and tasty delicacies.
We got off the number 1 bus at the “Walserhaus” stop at around 11 a.m. and conveniently found ourselves at the starting point of our hike. “Stuffed up” and armed with a map, compass and camera, we headed uphill - better safe than sorry ...
the toUR
The starting point is the Walserhaus in Hirschegg, where you can decide whether to take the lift to the top or hike up to the mountain station of the Heuberglift via the Rohrweg past the Schöntalhof and Parsenn lift, with the exception of a short, steep ascent of around 250 meters. An entertaining ascent with a wonderful view of the valley and the skiers who occasionally whizz right past you. Our worries that we might not find the way were unfounded. The signposting is perfect. By the time you reach the Heuberglift mountain station, the biggest climbs are already behind you. Once here, a well-groomed hiking trail begins, which leads through sparse mountain forest to the Zaferna mountain station (1,420 m) and the Sonna Alp.
1st course - Sonna Alp
We had taken our time for the first stage and were now standing in front of the hut at 12 noon, just in time like the much-quoted bricklayers. “It went well, but now I'm hungry,” I explain to Cecilé, who silently agrees with a beaming laugh. Sun-hungry skiers and winter hikers are bustling around on the terrace. We leave the outdoor area to the left and go inside. “Hello,” we are greeted at the entrance, “do you want to eat?” Yes, we do. The number of people is quickly clarified and we are asked for a little patience as a table is prepared for us. We are given a drink on the house for the wait. We feel well served and clink our glasses. Less than a quarter of an hour later, we take a seat and study the menu. We choose the baked Limburger with a salad bouquet. It tastes delicious, and we also like the hut itself: modern Alpine style, no kitsch, but lots of good taste in the decoration. The same goes for the cuisine: simple, typical dishes, reinterpreted and wonderfully freshly prepared.
more information“This won't be our last visit,” I oracle on the way to the next stage destination. We stroll gently up and down towards Maxhütte (1,380 m). We stretch our heads into the sun again and almost miss the sign “Zur Maxhütte”. We slam on the brakes and turn left. The first few meters downhill are a little steep on a forest road, later we change to a narrow path that leads us into a dense forest. We wouldn't be surprised if a fat owl landed on a branch and invited us to have a chat ... We stalk on and after the next bend we can already see the hut and the skiers whizzing past. The owls flutter out of our fantasies, because we are standing in front of a small, rustic hut with an obligatory sun terrace.
2nd course – Maxhütte
A sign points out the “Friendly self-service”. We follow the invitation and enter the parlor with its large tiled stove. “It's almost a shame it's not storming and snowing,” I say, “then we could have sat by the stove, but in this weather.” We opt for a hearty stew, which the hut owner (a real Walser original!) personally and eloquently pushes over the counter. We slip out again, because of the weather, and enjoy our meal. Another cup of coffee, then it's back to the main trail - in the direction of dessert.
more information3rd course– Bühlalpe
A good 20 minutes later, we are standing on the last sun terrace of the day. It belongs to the Bühlalpe, our final stage. We order “Helmut's world-famous Kaiserschmarrn”, which had already aroused our curiosity on the hut's homepage, and we are not disappointed. After the Schmarrn, we switch to the deckchairs and toast ourselves with a hot baked apple liqueur - our 3-hut, 3-course tour is coming to an end, and what started with a schnapps should end the same way - at least we think so.
more informationAt 5.30 pm, the Zaferna 
chairlift descends for the last time and we still have time for a little digestive nap. Our knees have held up so well that we briefly consider descending from here directly into the valley to Baad. “It would only take a good half an hour”, says Cecilé ... But we are sensible and hike back to the Zaferna mountain station on familiar terrain (approx. 25 minutes) and take the gondola down to the valley without hurting our knees, after all, we want to set off on our next winter hike tomorrow - our comeback has been a success.
